Two Months In: Making Community
I moved to Tbilisi two months ago, and haven’t posted once. For those of you looking for updates, I’m sorry about this and I appreciate that you care. To be honest, the biggest reason is because it just feels like normal life. In Skopje, it was my first year out of college, my first year living abroad, my first Fulbright… while I still appreciate how special it is that I get to do this and live in Georgia, I do not have the urge to take pictures of everything and post a lot. On the other hand, I want to include you all in my journey and keep this as a record for myself. So, let me get to writing! There’s plenty of time to recount all of it.
As I mentioned above, I already feel pretty settled. From the very beginning, I felt the hospitality and kindness of the people here. My taxi driver, Zurab, told me all his favorite things about Georgia while he drove me from the airport to my apartment and offered to carry my bags from the car and up the steps to the entrance to my building.
I feel I have, in some ways, cracked the code to settling in and forming community in a new city/country. Before I arrived, I desperately needed a manicure, so I found a good studio and booked an appointment for the day I came to Tbilisi. I’ve been back since and it is always a high quality set!
I got to know the other Fulbrighters over dinner, and at the Embassy at a briefing. There are two others in TBS, but I only see them occasionally.
I went to Calvary Chapel Tbilisi my first Sunday here, and to my surprise there were around 150 people! Much bigger than my church in Skopje. People were so talkative and welcoming., and I got invited to lunch after church with 10 other people in their 20s. There is a group of us (young adults) that meet for dinner, worship and bible study on Saturday evenings, and I really like going. The more I go, the closer I get with my new friends there and the more I feel like I belong.
There’s also an exercise studio right next to my apartment, so I go to classes there once a week. The class is taught in Russian, but that’s the language I am learning at the moment so actually, it is quite helpful. I made a German friend in class and she and I went for bagels this past week. I began skating this week, too — it felt SO good to get back on the ice. I’ve never skated in another country before so it’s a cool experience.
Why am I not learning Georgian, you ask? not for lack of trying. I met with a tutor my first week, but he lives too far away from me in Tbilisi for weekly lessons to be feasible. I also tried to enlist a girl at the university for help, but the students have had exams for weeks and I have not seen her for awhile. I know basic greetings, numbers, and words, but that’s all. People speak to me every day in Georgian, though — for directions, questions about buses, etc. Apparently my pale skin and long, dark hair look quite local, because after I tell them in Georgian that I do not speak the language, they are always surprised.
An American friend I made gave me the number of her Russian tutor, so I started with Zhuka last week. She’s a sweet (if a bit reserved) Georgian grandma, and I can already tell you that I know I will enjoy my time with her.
Now, the whole reason I am here… work! If the students ever finish midterms, I will teach freshman Grammar class on Wednesdays and Oral Communication on Thursdays. I have made and graded multiple quizzes and midterms, so at least that is helpful to the department. I know I shouldn't complain that I do not have much work, especially considering that the university is a 30 min bus ride (with one change) and if I don’t have work then I don’t have to trek. But, it has left my schedule pretty open, and I typically prefer a solid weekly plan.
In my free time, I have explored many restaurants and cafes, gone to the orchestra, met up with friends from Facebook, church, university, a Georgian American mutual friend who knows a pal of mine from the States, a mutual friend of Igor from Macedonia (new readers, don’t fear… Igor will make an appearance in Tbilisi shortly), Fulbrighters, and a foreign service officer from the Embassy.
I also began volunteering at the American Corner, helping them with the ‘All About America’ club. I’m giving a workshop one resume writing this week. We will probably host a Thanksgiving there as well in a few weeks.
Georgian parliamentary elections happened a few weeks ago and the pro-Russia party won, so there have been many protests around the city by citizens who wish for a pro-EU ruling party. They don’t become violent, mostly they just stop traffic (which is already bad due to overcrowding).
The food and wine ARE as amazing as described by others… khinkhali (dumplings), khachapuri (there are many kinds but it is essentially a cheese bread — the one from Adjara region has the famed egg yolk in the middle), adjapsandali (stewed veg), kharcho with elarji (beef stew reminiscent of curry with a grits-like side dish), pkhali (tiny ovals of spiced mixed veggies). I tried amber wine here for the first time, which is a natural wine of a slightly orange hue. If you can locate a Georgian wine in your local liquor store, you will NOT be disappointed!
I’m taking care of a few animals periodically… my landlord found a puppy that was badly injured, so he took her to a friend (connections grease the wheels here too, like the Balkans) to stitch her up, and I watch her for him from time to time. A family of cats also lives next to my building, and I feed them and let Rufus (who I think is actually the mother, oops) in sometimes for pets.
There are so many little moments I think to write about but then don’t, because I had the albatross of a ‘first post’ hanging over my head. The air often smells like fresh bread, and it is not hard to find people laughing, joking, enjoying life together. I really like it here. Expect more posts of the ‘day in the life’ variety.
xx Laur
